Wednesday, June 19, 2013

Gettysburg

Out of all of the Civil War sites we have planned to visit, I've been looking forward to Gettysburg the most. A town, by a twist of fate, became the site of the most brutal battle ever fought on American soil, claiming more casualties than any other battle of the war (51,000) and marking a turning point in the war. Union Maj. General George Meade successfully defeated Confederate General Robert E. Lee and ended Lee's second invasion of the North. The Union forces of nearly 94,000 collided with the Confederate forces of 71,600+ men in a battle that lasted 3 days, leaving a 25 sq. mile stretch of land littered with bodies and a town almost completely destroyed.

The museum exhibit at Gettysburg is one of the best we have visited. It began with an incredible film, "A New Birth of Freedom," narrated by Morgan Freeman and the Gettysburg Cyclorama which depicts the final day of the battle - Pickett's Charge. The museum exhibit that followed was full of relics, films, and photographs; both Rachel and I were overwhelmed by the impressive amount of artifacts and wealth of knowledge that was on display. We also lucked out in having the opportunity to see a special exhibit of additional artifacts on display for the 150th anniversary of the battle.

After lunch, we set out on a self-guided auto tour of the park. Monuments and cannons line the roadway and acted as a constant reminder to me of the sacrifices that were made on that ground. On the first day of the battle, July 1, 1863, the Confederate army successfully pushed back the Union troops, and on the 2nd, the Union troops held their position, leading to the 3rd and final day of the battle. On July 3, a cannonade raged for about 2 hours after which Lee ordered his men to launch a frontal attack, now known as Pickett's Charge. More than 14,000 troops marched out of the tree line across the field toward the Union line. Federal guns fell silent in awe of the vast number of men steadily marching toward them. The Union opened fire on the advancing rebels but the Confederates bravely marched on. They finally reached the Union lines where the fighting turned to hand-to-hand combat. They successfully broke through the Union lines at "the Angle" or "the high- water mark of the Confederacy," (the closest point they came to winning the war) but were quickly pushed back. The rebels were forced to retreat, Pickett's Charge had failed. Lee reportedly watched the assault from the tree line and exclaimed that "this has all been my fault." Over 50% of the Confederates who charged the Union lines didn't make it back to the tree line, including several generals. This ended the fighting at Gettysburg, but the battle was not yet over. 

Thousands of bodies lay in the fields and in the buildings of Gettysburg. Four months later, President Lincoln traveled to the battle site to dedicate the Soldiers' National Cemetery. He delivered one of his most famous speeches, the Gettysburg Address, in which he so eloquently honored the fallen and redefined the purpose for fighting the war - preservation of the Union and true equality for all. There are over 3,500 solders buried in the cemetery, over half of them are unknown, several of them are simply marked by a number. I cannot find words to adequately describe the emotions that came over me as I sat on a bench and looked upon the resting place of these brave men. It was a shocking realization that these men were less than 10% of the casualties of the Battle of Gettysburg. It is a site I believe every American should see to remind them of the sacrifices that were made on our behalf and to serve as an example of what it means to truly fight for your freedom and rights. 


The Virginia Memorial with a statue of General Robert E. Lee at the top. Lee watched Pickett's Charge from this location.


View of the field where Pickett's Charge occurred. The Virginia Memorial can be seen in the background on the tree line.


The gravestones which mark the resting places of the unknown soldiers who fell at Gettysburg.



I'll leave you with the words of one of the greatest men who has ever led our nation, a man who carried a burden most would crumble under:

"It is rather for us to be here dedicated to the great task remaining before us - that from these honored dead we take increased devotion to that cause for which they gave the last full measure of devotion - that we here highly resolve that these dead shall not have died in vain- that this nation, under God, shall have a new birth of freedom - and that government of the people, by the people, for the people, shall not perish from earth." 
Abraham Lincoln
Gettysburg Address

Monday, June 17, 2013

Antietam

Although this won't be posted until early Monday morning, it is our Sunday post so... Happy Father's Day to two incredible men, my dad, Carper, and Rachel's dad, Patrick! We love you and can't thank you enough for all that you have done for us and helping shape us into the women we are today.

Before I talk about our visit to Antietam, I wanted to comment on Appomattox. As Rachel said, it was a very moving experience to walk through the gravel streets where General Lee rode up to the McLean House on horseback, stepped into the parlor, and forever changed our nation's history. The simplicity of the town of Appomattox Court House reflects the ease of surrender; a war that had been fought so ferociously between friends, brothers, ended with a harmonious "Gentlemen's Agreement." I have no doubt that Appomattox Court House will remain in one of the top slots of my favorites of this trip.

In the spirit of Sunday, we got some much needed rest and didn't head out to Antietam until noon. The Battle of Antietam might not be one that comes to mind when most think of the Civil War, but it is definitely one for the history books. September 17, 1862 marks the bloodiest single-day battle in American history; 23,000 men were killed, wounded, or missing. The battle was the culmination of Confederate General Robert E. Lee's first invasion of the North. His Maryland Campaign had many objectives: secure Southern independence through a victory in the North and gain recognition from Britain and France, move the war out of Virginia, obtain supplies, influence the mid-term elections (get anti-war Northern Democrats in office), and liberate Maryland, a Southern state in the Union. 

The fighting broke out at dawn near the small town of Sharpsburg, MD where the men fought through the Cornfield, the East Woods, West Woods, the Sunken Road and around Dunkard Church as the Confederate Army tried to stop the three major attacks made by the Union Army. After 12 hours of combat, the battle ended in a draw and both sides gathered their wounded and buried their dead. The Confederate Army retreated back across the Potomac, ending Lee's invasion of the North. This provided President Lincoln with the opportunity to announce his preliminary Emancipation Proclamation which freed all of the slaves in the rebellious states. Therefore, Antietam is in the history books for a second reason: the war was not only being fought to preserve the Union, ending slavery had become a second purpose. 


Antietam Battlefield with Dunkard Church in the background 



The memorial honors the men who fought in Hood's Texas brigade during the Civil War. They quickly developed a reputation for fierce tenacity but also suffered the greatest losses of any infantry regiment, both North and South, in the Civil War.



The Cornfield



Antietam National Cemetery



Photographer, Mathew Brady, (father of photojournalism) sent photographer Alexander Gardner and his assistant James Gibson to photograph the carnage of Antietam. The photographs were displayed in Brady's New York gallery in an exhibit titled "The Dead of Antietam." This was the first time many Americans were exposed to the realities of war through the graphic photographs of corpses laying on the battlefield. Although the bodies have long been removed from the fields, I stared at the fields with tears silently rolling down my cheeks. I can't escape the thoughts about the many lives that were changed because of the events that occurred on this hallowed ground. Although I am not personally connected to the site, my life has been changed by the sacrifices of these men, and for that, I am eternally grateful.


Sunday, June 16, 2013

Appomattox Court House, Rotunda at the University of Virginia &Monticello

Lucy's right - my favorite historical site continues to change... I think I found a new favorite: Appomattox Court House. Lucy's in agreement - we both loved it! However, I'll boycott the word "favorite" until the end of our trip. Deal?

Appomattox Court House in Virginia was where General Robert E. Lee surrendered to General Ulysses S. Grant at the McLean House on April 9, 1865. Walking around the Appomattox Court House town opened my eyes to the simplicity of the 1800s. Lucy and I both felt the weight of Lee's surrender and how one decision changed the course of history. We got chills! 

McLean House (where Lee surrendered to Grant): 

After Appomattox, we headed to Charlottesville to tour the Rotunda at the University of Virginia. It was definitely a flashback to last year when I visited UVA with friends while interning in D.C. I'm beginning to fall in love with Charlottesville! 

Thomas Jefferson completed his "Academical Village" in 1826. Different from most colleges, UVA was built around the Rotunda which housed a collection of books (the library). The norm for other colleges of that time period was to construct their school around a church as the focal point. Jefferson based the university on "the illimitable freedom of the human mind", so the library at the center was fitting. 

The Rotunda at the University of Virginia: 

Continuing our day of learning about all things Jefferson, we left UVA for a tour of the founding father's architectural wonder that is Monticello. An "amateur architect", as Jefferson is often referred, is definitely an understatement. Every detail of Monticello was designed for a specific purpose. Why have to use two hands to close two doors when you can use one? The doors were designed in such a way that one hand would suffice. The other hand could carry Jefferson's books (most likely in a different language - he was fluent in 7!). A man of many trades, I'm amazed how Jefferson placed time with family as a priority. When did the man sleep? 

Monticello: 

A special gift of Saturday was getting to witness a Monticello tour guide thank his tour trainer on her last day of work. Hester, about 66, has worked at Monticello for 14 years. She trained Patrick five years ago. I overheard Patrick thanking Hester for mentoring him throughout his job at Monticello. Before tearing up too much, I chatted with them and asked if they wanted a picture to commemorate Hester's last day. They agreed!

Patrick & Hester (tour guides of Monticello): 
Yes, I already emailed them the pic!

Thomas Jefferson wanted to be remembered for 3 things: 1) the author of the Declaration of Independence, 2) the author of Virginia's statute for religious freedom and 3) the father of the University of Virginia. 

Thomas Jefferson's Grave:

Sadly, we said our goodbyes to Charlottesville this morning. We've loved every minute of our Virginia visit! 

Off to Maryland! 

Friday, June 14, 2013

The Birthplace of America

We decided that sleeping in just a little on Friday morning would be a good idea. After getting some much needed rest, we jetted off to the Jamestown Settlement in Virginia. While driving through the beautiful countryside, I have new found respect for the men and women who settled this land. I had always known their lives weren't easy but seeing the site first hand gave me a new perspective on what they endured.

We rode a ferry across the James River to get to the Jamestown Settlement (I'll just say it was a bad day for Rachel to wear a skirt and I'm lucky to still have my sunglasses since they were blown right off my face). The Jamestown Settlement is a re-creation of the first permanent English colony in the New World. The first settlers arrived in 1607 aboard 3 ships, the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery. Only the Captain, officers and crew were allowed on deck; the passengers had to stay below deck unless they had permission from the Captain to go up top. We explored the re-creations of the ships moored at the pier and I'm absolutely certain I would not have survived the trip. Looking past the fact that I wouldn't have been on the ship in the first place considering I'm a woman, I would not have been able to spend 4 and a half months in that cramped up space... sea sick. No thank you! I would have stayed in England.


The Susan Constant


We also walked around the re-creation of the Jamestown fort which reflects the life the colonists would have lived between 1610-1614. The fort is complete with an Anglican church, a court of guard, a storehouse, a cape merchant's office, a governor's house, and a blacksmith. Historical interpreters throughout the site re-enact the various roles the colonists played, including our friend Charles who showed us how matchlock muskets are fired. Rachel said this was her favorite historical site of the places we've visited so far... but she said that about Fort Sumter yesterday, so I think there might be a trend developing here.

We then walked through a replica of a Powhatan Indian village. A storm passed through the night before and caused a lot of damage to the park. Unfortunately the village wasn't entirely cleaned up but we at least got an idea of how they lived.


The entrance to the Jamestown fort


Matchlock Musket Demonstration


We left Jamestown and drove to the lovely little town of Williamsburg, VA. On our way to downtown, we passed by the College of William & Mary and Rachel and I immediately fell in love. Walking around downtown only made us want to move to Virginia even more. We grabbed a bite to eat at the Cheese Shop then walked around Merchants' Square and did a little shopping. I wish we could spend more time in this area but we're off to Appomattox tomorrow. I guess that means we'll just have to come back some other time - I don't think that will be a problem!

Ghost Tour (Savannah). Fort Sumter (Charleston). Folly Beach(Charleston).

I survived Wednesday's ghost tour in one piece! Of course, our tour guide put me in charge before locking us in the Sons Ship Chandlery. Of all the people! Lucy got a kick out of that. Thankfully, I didn't have to protect anyone. Considering I was hiding behind Lucy throughout the performance, putting me in charge was not the smartest decision. But, we came out alive!

After enjoying some candy from Savannah's Candy Kitchen, we headed to another hotel and hit the hay! 

On Thursday, we got off to another early start. My early morning hotel workouts are becoming harder and harder to wake up for...

We managed to get to Charleston for our noon boat tour of Fort Sumter. Fort Sumter has been one of my favorite historical sites so far. Located in the Charleston Harbor, Fort Sumter was where the first shots of the Civil War were fired on April 12, 1861 at 4:30a.m. The fort was named after South Carolina Revolutionary War patriot Thomas Sumter. 

Union Maj. Robert Anderson saw Fort Sumter as a stronghold of the Confederacy due to its economic stability. 

Since Fort Moultrie, where the Union army was camped, remained defenseless, Anderson moved to Fort Sumter. Confederate Brig. Gen. Beauregard gave Anderson an ultimatum to evacuate Fort Sumter but he refused. Ironically, Beauregard was a previous student of Anderson's at West Point. Although saddened by firing at a friend, Beauregard ordered the Confederacy to attack Fort Sumter. After 34 hours of gun fire, and miraculously no fatalities on either side, Anderson knew victory of Fort Sumter was a lost cause, so he surrendered and agreed to evacuate with his only request being to salute the 33-star American flag. When he saluted the flag, the gun fired prematurely, killing Union Private Hough, the first casualty of the Civil War. The Confederate Army had taken over and the Civil War had begun. 

                        Fort Sumter 

After returning from our boat tour, we ate the most delicious lunch at the Glass Onion. Thanks, Byron Capt, for the suggestion! 

My trout with succotash and potato salad: 


Lucy's fried quail, roasted corn on the cob and watermelon: 



Our blueberry/peach cobbler:



After lunch, we headed to Folly Beach. That meal didn't stop us from putting on our bathing suits (yikes!). 



We left Charleston around 7pm, drove through the rain, missed the North Carolina sign, drove back to get our picture in the midst of the storm and finally landed in Wilson, North Carolina. What a night! 

Off to the first English settlement in Jamestowne, Virginia! 

Cruisin' Cousins over and out. 




Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Driving, driving, and more driving

Today we drove over 640 miles from Clinton, Mississippi to Savannah, Georgia (we're still driving actually). I, personally, was sad to say goodbye to the magnolia trees of Mississippi but I know Rachel is probably glad she doesn't have to listen to me obsess over them anymore. Ha! As suggested by Mr. Drew Thornley, we stopped in Birmingham at Full Moon for some delicious bar-b-que! The food was great but the University of Alabama decorations were a bit overwhelming, especially for this Aggie. There was just one too many pictures of Nick Saban staring at me. Luckily we were distracted by two lovely "transplants" (residents not originally from Alabama - their term, not mine) who asked to sit at our table. We had a wonderful conversation with Sherry and Christina about finding the sister you never had, traveling across the U.S., and Alabama the Beautiful. They had traveled to several states, including Texas, and shared some quite comical stories about culture shock and learning the nuances of restaurant etiquette in various cuisines. They suggested we keep a blog of our road trip... Our response: we actually have one and were wondering if you wouldn't mind being in it! Check out the People We've Met page for the picture with our Alabama friends. 

We searched the walls and found some Texas representation!



Crossing the Alabama - Georgia state line was a bit hairy, I'd rather not explain why to spare our parents of a heart attack. Rachel, Henry, and I are safe and now about 50 miles outside of Savannah, excited about taking a ghost tour of one of the most haunted cities in America. Rachel has never been on a ghost tour before so well see if she ever wants to go on another one. Especially after going on one with me... Well post some pictures tomorrow if we make it out alive! 

Vicksburg, Jackson & Mr. Charles Evers


Another educational day!

This morning, we headed back to Vicksburg National Military Park to tour the monuments. We arrived just in time to witness the Union army set off the cannon.

Union Soldiers

Vicksburg National Military Park is northeast of Vicksburg, Mississippi. A less vulnerable post to an attack from Federal and military forces, Vicksburg (as well as Port Hudson) was a stronger post, preventing the Union army from taking control of the Mississippi. Therefore, as said by President Lincoln, Vicksburg was “the key” to the Union’s success.

Protected by the river, Maj. Gen. Ulysses S. Grant strategized by ordering the Union to rid the Mississippi of Confederate opposition. After several failed attempts to take over Pemberton’s army completely, Grant began a formal siege. Through artillery batteries coming from landside and Adm. David D. Porter’s gunboats from the river, Pemberton knew a Confederate surrender was on the horizon. On July 4, 1863 after 46 days of relentless battle, the Confederate army surrendered.


Texas Memorial 


Read more details of the Battle of Vicksburg here. 

By touring the 16-mile park (by car, thankfully - we’re no boy scouts like the younger Jack Neal who walked the park. twice.), we saw many states’ memorials, the Vicksburg National Cemetery, Shirley House (the Union army’s “white house”, serving as the HQ for the 45th Illinois infantry) and the USS Cairo Gunboat (an instrumental boat used in the Battle of Vicksburg to destroy Confederate batteries from the Yazoo River to regain the Mississippi and the first ship in history to be sunk by an electrically detonated torpedo).  


Vicksburg National Cemetery


Shirley House


USS Cairo Gunboat


After yesterday’s post, I’m sure our readers are waiting with bated breath. So, we are pleased to share that we had the privilege of meeting Mr. Charles Evers, brother of the widely acclaimed Medgar Evers!

Charles Evers


Medgar Evers, an African American civil rights activist who was field secretary of the NAACP was extremely influential in the civil rights movement. But at 37, Medgar was assassinated by member of the White Citizens’ Council, Byron De La Beckwith. His brother, ninety-year-old Charles Evers resembles a dapper 65-year-old man! Friends of Mr. Evers, my godparents set up an appointment with Mr. Evers in his office for Lucy and me to meet him. We were honored to hear from Mr. Evers about Medgar, his family, other life experiences and advice on how to “do unto others as you would have them do unto you”.  

Our meeting with Mr. Evers came to an end, and Jack and Gloria took us to downtown Jackson – the old capitol, MS Museum of Art (Impressionist exhibit) and Eudora Welty’s house (writer of one of my favorite short stories, ‘Why I Live At the P.O’).

Eudora Welty's House


We’ve had a great time in Mississippi! We’re sad to say bye to our expert tourguides/history buffs, Jack and Gloria.


Tomorrow, we hit it for Savannah, our rest stop before Charleston. Henry Ford gets some more quality time with the cousins. Lucky him.