Sunday, June 16, 2013

Appomattox Court House, Rotunda at the University of Virginia &Monticello

Lucy's right - my favorite historical site continues to change... I think I found a new favorite: Appomattox Court House. Lucy's in agreement - we both loved it! However, I'll boycott the word "favorite" until the end of our trip. Deal?

Appomattox Court House in Virginia was where General Robert E. Lee surrendered to General Ulysses S. Grant at the McLean House on April 9, 1865. Walking around the Appomattox Court House town opened my eyes to the simplicity of the 1800s. Lucy and I both felt the weight of Lee's surrender and how one decision changed the course of history. We got chills! 

McLean House (where Lee surrendered to Grant): 

After Appomattox, we headed to Charlottesville to tour the Rotunda at the University of Virginia. It was definitely a flashback to last year when I visited UVA with friends while interning in D.C. I'm beginning to fall in love with Charlottesville! 

Thomas Jefferson completed his "Academical Village" in 1826. Different from most colleges, UVA was built around the Rotunda which housed a collection of books (the library). The norm for other colleges of that time period was to construct their school around a church as the focal point. Jefferson based the university on "the illimitable freedom of the human mind", so the library at the center was fitting. 

The Rotunda at the University of Virginia: 

Continuing our day of learning about all things Jefferson, we left UVA for a tour of the founding father's architectural wonder that is Monticello. An "amateur architect", as Jefferson is often referred, is definitely an understatement. Every detail of Monticello was designed for a specific purpose. Why have to use two hands to close two doors when you can use one? The doors were designed in such a way that one hand would suffice. The other hand could carry Jefferson's books (most likely in a different language - he was fluent in 7!). A man of many trades, I'm amazed how Jefferson placed time with family as a priority. When did the man sleep? 

Monticello: 

A special gift of Saturday was getting to witness a Monticello tour guide thank his tour trainer on her last day of work. Hester, about 66, has worked at Monticello for 14 years. She trained Patrick five years ago. I overheard Patrick thanking Hester for mentoring him throughout his job at Monticello. Before tearing up too much, I chatted with them and asked if they wanted a picture to commemorate Hester's last day. They agreed!

Patrick & Hester (tour guides of Monticello): 
Yes, I already emailed them the pic!

Thomas Jefferson wanted to be remembered for 3 things: 1) the author of the Declaration of Independence, 2) the author of Virginia's statute for religious freedom and 3) the father of the University of Virginia. 

Thomas Jefferson's Grave:

Sadly, we said our goodbyes to Charlottesville this morning. We've loved every minute of our Virginia visit! 

Off to Maryland! 

Friday, June 14, 2013

The Birthplace of America

We decided that sleeping in just a little on Friday morning would be a good idea. After getting some much needed rest, we jetted off to the Jamestown Settlement in Virginia. While driving through the beautiful countryside, I have new found respect for the men and women who settled this land. I had always known their lives weren't easy but seeing the site first hand gave me a new perspective on what they endured.

We rode a ferry across the James River to get to the Jamestown Settlement (I'll just say it was a bad day for Rachel to wear a skirt and I'm lucky to still have my sunglasses since they were blown right off my face). The Jamestown Settlement is a re-creation of the first permanent English colony in the New World. The first settlers arrived in 1607 aboard 3 ships, the Susan Constant, Godspeed, and Discovery. Only the Captain, officers and crew were allowed on deck; the passengers had to stay below deck unless they had permission from the Captain to go up top. We explored the re-creations of the ships moored at the pier and I'm absolutely certain I would not have survived the trip. Looking past the fact that I wouldn't have been on the ship in the first place considering I'm a woman, I would not have been able to spend 4 and a half months in that cramped up space... sea sick. No thank you! I would have stayed in England.


The Susan Constant


We also walked around the re-creation of the Jamestown fort which reflects the life the colonists would have lived between 1610-1614. The fort is complete with an Anglican church, a court of guard, a storehouse, a cape merchant's office, a governor's house, and a blacksmith. Historical interpreters throughout the site re-enact the various roles the colonists played, including our friend Charles who showed us how matchlock muskets are fired. Rachel said this was her favorite historical site of the places we've visited so far... but she said that about Fort Sumter yesterday, so I think there might be a trend developing here.

We then walked through a replica of a Powhatan Indian village. A storm passed through the night before and caused a lot of damage to the park. Unfortunately the village wasn't entirely cleaned up but we at least got an idea of how they lived.


The entrance to the Jamestown fort


Matchlock Musket Demonstration


We left Jamestown and drove to the lovely little town of Williamsburg, VA. On our way to downtown, we passed by the College of William & Mary and Rachel and I immediately fell in love. Walking around downtown only made us want to move to Virginia even more. We grabbed a bite to eat at the Cheese Shop then walked around Merchants' Square and did a little shopping. I wish we could spend more time in this area but we're off to Appomattox tomorrow. I guess that means we'll just have to come back some other time - I don't think that will be a problem!

Ghost Tour (Savannah). Fort Sumter (Charleston). Folly Beach(Charleston).

I survived Wednesday's ghost tour in one piece! Of course, our tour guide put me in charge before locking us in the Sons Ship Chandlery. Of all the people! Lucy got a kick out of that. Thankfully, I didn't have to protect anyone. Considering I was hiding behind Lucy throughout the performance, putting me in charge was not the smartest decision. But, we came out alive!

After enjoying some candy from Savannah's Candy Kitchen, we headed to another hotel and hit the hay! 

On Thursday, we got off to another early start. My early morning hotel workouts are becoming harder and harder to wake up for...

We managed to get to Charleston for our noon boat tour of Fort Sumter. Fort Sumter has been one of my favorite historical sites so far. Located in the Charleston Harbor, Fort Sumter was where the first shots of the Civil War were fired on April 12, 1861 at 4:30a.m. The fort was named after South Carolina Revolutionary War patriot Thomas Sumter. 

Union Maj. Robert Anderson saw Fort Sumter as a stronghold of the Confederacy due to its economic stability. 

Since Fort Moultrie, where the Union army was camped, remained defenseless, Anderson moved to Fort Sumter. Confederate Brig. Gen. Beauregard gave Anderson an ultimatum to evacuate Fort Sumter but he refused. Ironically, Beauregard was a previous student of Anderson's at West Point. Although saddened by firing at a friend, Beauregard ordered the Confederacy to attack Fort Sumter. After 34 hours of gun fire, and miraculously no fatalities on either side, Anderson knew victory of Fort Sumter was a lost cause, so he surrendered and agreed to evacuate with his only request being to salute the 33-star American flag. When he saluted the flag, the gun fired prematurely, killing Union Private Hough, the first casualty of the Civil War. The Confederate Army had taken over and the Civil War had begun. 

                        Fort Sumter 

After returning from our boat tour, we ate the most delicious lunch at the Glass Onion. Thanks, Byron Capt, for the suggestion! 

My trout with succotash and potato salad: 


Lucy's fried quail, roasted corn on the cob and watermelon: 



Our blueberry/peach cobbler:



After lunch, we headed to Folly Beach. That meal didn't stop us from putting on our bathing suits (yikes!). 



We left Charleston around 7pm, drove through the rain, missed the North Carolina sign, drove back to get our picture in the midst of the storm and finally landed in Wilson, North Carolina. What a night! 

Off to the first English settlement in Jamestowne, Virginia! 

Cruisin' Cousins over and out. 




Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Driving, driving, and more driving

Today we drove over 640 miles from Clinton, Mississippi to Savannah, Georgia (we're still driving actually). I, personally, was sad to say goodbye to the magnolia trees of Mississippi but I know Rachel is probably glad she doesn't have to listen to me obsess over them anymore. Ha! As suggested by Mr. Drew Thornley, we stopped in Birmingham at Full Moon for some delicious bar-b-que! The food was great but the University of Alabama decorations were a bit overwhelming, especially for this Aggie. There was just one too many pictures of Nick Saban staring at me. Luckily we were distracted by two lovely "transplants" (residents not originally from Alabama - their term, not mine) who asked to sit at our table. We had a wonderful conversation with Sherry and Christina about finding the sister you never had, traveling across the U.S., and Alabama the Beautiful. They had traveled to several states, including Texas, and shared some quite comical stories about culture shock and learning the nuances of restaurant etiquette in various cuisines. They suggested we keep a blog of our road trip... Our response: we actually have one and were wondering if you wouldn't mind being in it! Check out the People We've Met page for the picture with our Alabama friends. 

We searched the walls and found some Texas representation!



Crossing the Alabama - Georgia state line was a bit hairy, I'd rather not explain why to spare our parents of a heart attack. Rachel, Henry, and I are safe and now about 50 miles outside of Savannah, excited about taking a ghost tour of one of the most haunted cities in America. Rachel has never been on a ghost tour before so well see if she ever wants to go on another one. Especially after going on one with me... Well post some pictures tomorrow if we make it out alive! 

Vicksburg, Jackson & Mr. Charles Evers


Another educational day!

This morning, we headed back to Vicksburg National Military Park to tour the monuments. We arrived just in time to witness the Union army set off the cannon.

Union Soldiers

Vicksburg National Military Park is northeast of Vicksburg, Mississippi. A less vulnerable post to an attack from Federal and military forces, Vicksburg (as well as Port Hudson) was a stronger post, preventing the Union army from taking control of the Mississippi. Therefore, as said by President Lincoln, Vicksburg was “the key” to the Union’s success.

Protected by the river, Maj. Gen. Ulysses S. Grant strategized by ordering the Union to rid the Mississippi of Confederate opposition. After several failed attempts to take over Pemberton’s army completely, Grant began a formal siege. Through artillery batteries coming from landside and Adm. David D. Porter’s gunboats from the river, Pemberton knew a Confederate surrender was on the horizon. On July 4, 1863 after 46 days of relentless battle, the Confederate army surrendered.


Texas Memorial 


Read more details of the Battle of Vicksburg here. 

By touring the 16-mile park (by car, thankfully - we’re no boy scouts like the younger Jack Neal who walked the park. twice.), we saw many states’ memorials, the Vicksburg National Cemetery, Shirley House (the Union army’s “white house”, serving as the HQ for the 45th Illinois infantry) and the USS Cairo Gunboat (an instrumental boat used in the Battle of Vicksburg to destroy Confederate batteries from the Yazoo River to regain the Mississippi and the first ship in history to be sunk by an electrically detonated torpedo).  


Vicksburg National Cemetery


Shirley House


USS Cairo Gunboat


After yesterday’s post, I’m sure our readers are waiting with bated breath. So, we are pleased to share that we had the privilege of meeting Mr. Charles Evers, brother of the widely acclaimed Medgar Evers!

Charles Evers


Medgar Evers, an African American civil rights activist who was field secretary of the NAACP was extremely influential in the civil rights movement. But at 37, Medgar was assassinated by member of the White Citizens’ Council, Byron De La Beckwith. His brother, ninety-year-old Charles Evers resembles a dapper 65-year-old man! Friends of Mr. Evers, my godparents set up an appointment with Mr. Evers in his office for Lucy and me to meet him. We were honored to hear from Mr. Evers about Medgar, his family, other life experiences and advice on how to “do unto others as you would have them do unto you”.  

Our meeting with Mr. Evers came to an end, and Jack and Gloria took us to downtown Jackson – the old capitol, MS Museum of Art (Impressionist exhibit) and Eudora Welty’s house (writer of one of my favorite short stories, ‘Why I Live At the P.O’).

Eudora Welty's House


We’ve had a great time in Mississippi! We’re sad to say bye to our expert tourguides/history buffs, Jack and Gloria.


Tomorrow, we hit it for Savannah, our rest stop before Charleston. Henry Ford gets some more quality time with the cousins. Lucky him. 

Monday, June 10, 2013

Plantation homes in Natchez, MS

A day can't go wrong when it starts off with a breakfast of the most delicious French Toast I've ever eaten. Luckily, they willingly gave us the recipe so we shall see if either of us can be successful in preparing it. Gosh I hope so because my stomach is growling just thinking about it.

After breakfast, Val gave us a very colorful tour of her lovely home. I'll just say that she gave us the perfect example of what it means to be a Southern Belle. One of the most fascinating details about the house, Pleasant Hill, built in 1835, is that it's not currently sitting on its original location but was moved one block south on log rollers by an oxen team in the 1850s. It's such a quaint little home full of beautiful antiques - it would be very easy for me to just move right in.

Pleasant Hill B&B
Rachel, Gloria & Lucy 

We packed up and headed to our first plantation home tour at Rosalie. It was built between 1820-1823 by Peter Little and his wife Eliza and named after the French fort that was built on the land in 1716. In 1857, the house was purchased by Andrew and Eliza Wilson. During the Civil War (excuse me, the War of Northern Aggression), the Union Army took over Rosalie as their headquarters. Knowing the nature of his soldiers and that the Wilson's would live in the house again after the war, General Gresham allowed Mrs. Wilson's exquisite furniture to be packed up and locked up in the attic for safe keeping. The furniture seen in the house today all belonged to Mrs. Wilson. Rosalie stayed in the Wilson family until 1938 when the Daughters of the Republic purchased the house under the condition that the 2 remaining descendants could continue to live in the house. The 2 women gave tours of the house, hoop skirts and all, until their deaths.
Rosalie
1820 - 1823


Longwood mansion was our next stop. It is the largest octagonal house in the United States, built by cotton baron Haller Nutt and his wife Julia. The original design included 32 rooms on a total of 6 floors. Work on the house began circa 1859 but the war reached Natchez and work on the house halted. Only the basement floor with 9 rooms had been completed at that point. Nutt died of pneumonia in 1864, never completing construction of his home. His family lived in the quarters until Julia's death in 1897. The Pilgrimage Garden Club maintains the home in its unfinished state. Despite being incomplete, the house is a fascinating piece of architecture. I can't imagine how grand it would be had construction been completed.

Longwood
1859


Longwood Porch: Rachel, Jack, Gloria & Lucy

Jack and Gloria treated us to another tasty meal at the Castle Pub. I'm really liking all this Southern food. Rachel, of course, finds the healthy choices and I say bring on the fried food! I'll eat it while I can! 

We then headed to Vicksburg National Military Park but couldn't say for long. I have a feeling I'm going to have some issues with the closing times at many of the parks we visit. We'll head back tomorrow to tour the park. 

Tomorrow, Jack and Gloria have a very special surprise planned for us... Can't wait to share it with y'all. 

Sunday, June 9, 2013

Natchez, Mississippi

Our first day of driving has come to an end. We picked up Henry Ford at his Avis home at 9:15am this morning. So far Henry knows how to take care of his girls. Two states later, and he's taken us all the way to Mississippi for our first stop: Natchez. 

Today was a day filled with RAIN, laughter and puppy chow (thanks to Lucy). I look at today as a mini training camp for the days ahead. We don't have many history lessons to share yet, but don't worry they're coming! 

We saw more of the road than anything else, but tomorrow we'll share the ins and outs of Natchez and Mississippi history. My godparents, Jack and Gloria (Mississippians) treated us to a B&B in Natchez for the night - what a treat! We were welcomed by the lovely B&B hostess Mrs. Val: "Are y'all the girl cousins we've heard so much about?!" I'm lovin' this southern hospitality, y'all. Jack continues to tell me just because I'm from Texas 'don't mean I understand the South.' I'm beginning to think he may be right...

After a lovely meal with Jack and Glo at Magnolia Grill, a restaurant 'Under the Hill' by the MS River, we're off to bed. 

Tomorrow, bring on the history! 



A rainbow 'under the hill' in Natchez!